Laricyl [1], an extract from the Fomes officinalis mushroom, has been a staple in BASF’s portfolio of cosmetic active ingredients for pore refinement for 20 years. In an effort to align its actions towards more sustainable practices, the company has developed a new production method for this tried-and-tested substance.

Solid-state fermentation

Thus, BASF now produces the mycelium, the vegetative part of the fungus, by solid-state fermentation. This more sustainable method replaces the harvesting of the mushroom from the wild. The production of the mycelium, that is now organic certified, is carried out in Europe on solid medium within a controlled incubation room.

The new version of Laricyl is 99.7% from natural origin according to ISO 16128.

Improved efficacy confirmed in vivo

In a double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face and randomized study with 25 female subjects, the revised version of Laricyl showed its ability to improve the appearance of pores in size and number at a concentration of 3%. Image analysis showed that it minimized the appearance of visible pores immediately after application 2.8 times better than the previous version of the ingredient, with an astringent effect.

According to BASF, the active ingredient also helped to remove excess oil from the skin, making it less shiny without drying it out.

We continuously revise our portfolio to produce even more sustainably. Of course, this should not be at the expense of performance,” said Lucilene Veira Nunes, Head of Business Management for Bioactive Ingredients, EMEA. “With Laricyl, we have now succeeded in making cultivation of the raw material more sustainable, while at the same time improving the results of the ingredient on immediate pore tightening, skin mattifying and moisturization.

This new development is part of BASF’s Responsibly Active program for its bioactives portfolio. Among other things, the program seeks to have 100% of botanical supply chains traceable to the source and sustainably sourced as well as 50% organic certified by 2030. The programme also includes measures to reduce climate impact.